“For what a bakery can do to be a relevant part of the local sustainable food economy - I think we do a good job.” Nels Leader, son of the founder Dan Leader, is understandably proud of Bread Alone’s accomplishments. In 1983, Dan moved his family from NYC to Boiceville and started selling bread in the Hudson Valley and to NYC via the newly minted ‘NYC Greenmarket’.Read More
Mark Justh of J & D Farms came to farming via the Army, Princeton, and managing JP Morgan’s brokerage business in Hong Kong. Now he is the CEO of Fleischers Grass-Fed & Organic Meats and farms over 4000 acres 35 miles SE of Syracuse.Read More
I take this soil… I start out in the Spring and it is green, I roll it over and it is brown, I make it green again with a crop. You know, brown to green, brown to green, brown to green, every time I go brown to green, I am supplying something. I do something that only 1% of the people in this country do. We feed the rest of you.
With over 1500 acres in cultivate, John Gill, of Gill Farms, is certainly feeding us - and his main crop is sweet corn, 16 million lbs a year.Read More
We will start this discussion of Davenport Farm by hearing from Bruce Davenport (courtesy of their website and because I am a history lover).
In the last 300 years, our society has gone through drastic, remarkable changes. The basic concept of farming: seeds, seed bed preparation, planting, and tending to the needs of the crop is still the same, but in those 300 years our society has gone from agrarian to industrial. Luckily for some of us, even industrialists need to eat, and tilling the soil and planting the seeds are still the best way to produce food. In an industrial society, people and businesses become specialists, producing products and performing services based on their special talents and/or the availability of a natural resource.
Farming across the country is no different. In the southwest, the farms enjoy abundant sunshine, and a long growing season perfect for fresh market fruits and vegetables. The Midwest, with its vast acreage, shorter growing season, and limited water supply is best suited for grain crops. The Northeast, including the Rondout Valley, has a relatively short growing season, but the excellent soils, available water, and access to large markets offer its farmers many opportunities. The Rondout Valley has been New York City’s breadbasket for 200 years, and continues to produce a great variety of fresh fruits and vegetables.
Our farm has been in our family for four generations. My great-grandfather and grandfather produced fresh market crops (tomatoes, corn, peppers, etc.) and storage crops (cabbage, potatoes and onions) for both the local markets and New York City. With the advent of refrigeration my father was able to specialize in sweet corn, the crop that seemed to grow the best in this valley. At one point, he grew over 1,000 acres of corn. At that time there were nearly 6,000 acres in the Rondout Valley planted in sweet corn, and ten large sweet corn operations shipping its products countrywide. There are still three large corn operations in the valley, and Rondout Valley corn is still considered by many to be the best money can buy.
Today, due to high fuel prices and increased concern for food security, there has been a surge in demand for local produce. We grow many of the same crops my grandfather and great grandfather grew, and sell to the 21st century version of the same markets they sold to. It gives me a good feeling to know my brother and I, like many other farmers in the Rondout Valley, are continuing a long-standing tradition of raising crops in the same soil our forefathers farmed. And when I find an arrowhead in the field, I’m reminded that these soils have been the cornerstone of cultures for millennia.
As Bruce shared with me, he grew up farming 1000 acres of sweetcorn with his family and “the life sucked.” Currently he farms 100 with his brother, renting the rest to his neighbors and relatives. Their 100 acres is flat, wide, and open with views of the Catskills.
One of his renters raises cattle and I asked him if he uses their manure on their fields to feed the soil organic matter and it turned into a conversation about the difference in terminology between GMO and GE foods.
We don’t put the manure from the cows onto the field because that is pretty dangerous, you don’t want to do that just willy nilly. That has to be a planned thing you want all of your customers to live through it. Throwing e-coli out in your field, that is generally considered not to be a good thing.
The thing with farming nowadays is that you need to control as many things as you can possibly control. That is why that whole GMO thing came about – that is just one more little bit of control a farmer has over what is going. We don’t use anything GMO – actually that is a misnomer – we don’t use anything GE – basically everything out there is GMO.
GMO is genetically modified – that means anything that has been altered is GMO – like a hybrid or breeding anything. If it has been open pollinated like your Brandywine Tomatoes that is GMO. GE is when they genetically engineer the seed by putting in different genetics.
As a farmer, you need to control the environment as much as you possibly can because there is so much that you can’t control. The margins are so small in the business that you can’t let anything slip by.
He enjoys growing a variety of produce in the season, as he shares, “it allows you to be creative and I have the winters off.” Davenport has a farmstand in Stone Ridge that is open all year except the last half of December, January, and February.
Davenport Farms sells their produce to Whole Foods, Hannafords, Grow NYC, and Farm to Table’s Winter Sun Farms - which is how it comes to Bard College and The New School.
Cheers to knowing where our food comes from!
For Jim Hyland of Farm to Table CoPackers, the decision to start 7 years ago, “was on a whim. I eat, which is why I started this.” Hyland’s spur of the moment decision to start freezing produce for his neighboring farmers in New Paltz has morphed into nearly 30 employees working to preserve the bounty of summer.
Whether it be to freeze, to pickle, or to make soups or sauces - Farm to Table is our local co-packer working with local farms.
Currently housed in the former kitchens of the former IBM Tech City outside of Kingston, Hyland is looking to become the food hub for the Hudson Valley - a place where thousands of pounds of fresh produce from Hudson Valley farms are preserved in his facility and then sent all over the country. Over 30 private labels use Hyland’s facility to pack and process their products - labels such as Rick’s Picks, Hudson Valley Harvest, Super Seedz and more. Bard receives frozen produce and prepared sauces made from local farms under Hyland’s private label: Winter Sun Farms.
Hyland shared many thoughts as we toured his facility:
As Winter Sun started to grow we found that there was no infrastructure for this, for what we were trying to do. No one was setup to work with small farms - so this [facility] opened 4 years ago - and we have been growing from there.
The more volume we can pull through here the more secondary things we can do. We literally ran green beans the other day for Winter Sun - so we had about 2500 lbs of green beans. We ran three other batches of green beans for small farms that day: Conuco Farm, Evolutionary Organics, and Millers Crossing. Millers had about 500 lbs, the other two had about 200 lbs each - but we put them on the back of a run and were able to pack them up. You know, it is a small amount of packing but no one is doing it, no one would ever consider doing it. But because of the volumes we have we can slot that stuff easily.
The fact that we buy from Hugeunot Street Farm, say 325 lbs of tomatoes, that is not a lot. It doesn’t seem to be an important thing, but you know the farmers made an extra $120 bucks or whatever it was, and they only had to drop it off at my house. We try to do these things that help the mission.
But it’s really driven by how efficient we can be, the equipment, and that institutional market. We work with the farms to see how they pack it, how they produce, how we can most efficiently transport. We are never going to be the cheapest on the ground. We don’t want to be the cheapest. We don’t want to have the race to the bottom. There are legitimate price concerns, and how do we work within that, and how do we show to you that what you are paying has that value.
Perhaps you just helped us create 50 jobs or 25 jobs. Those jobs are right in your backyard. These farms are right there.
The farms are right here. Winter Sun preserves and freezes produce from a dozens of Hudson Valley Farms; here is a small sampling: Greig, Migliorelli, Talieferro, Shaul, Miller’s Crossing, Davenport Farm, Gill Farm, etc etc.
As the harvest season winds down, look for signs showcasing the farmers via Winter Sun Farms.
Cheers to knowing where our food comes from!